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gebrauchtkauf
BeitragVerfasst am: 21.11.04, 17:37 Antworten mit Zitat
impedito
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can someone translate this link in English or in Italian language?

http://www.xt350.de/rahmen.php?seite=artikel/gebrauchtkauf

thank you
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BeitragVerfasst am: 22.11.04, 00:29 Antworten mit Zitat
Wiwa
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ufff Laughing

anyone should do it with an translation program.
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BeitragVerfasst am: 22.11.04, 02:54 Antworten mit Zitat
Don Pedro
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Hi impedito,

try to contact "marco fango". May be he can answer your questions.
He's itallian too. Cool

ciao,
Peter

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Gruß,
Peter


Gestern war morgen heute.
Ein Tippfehler und die ganze Signatur ist uriniert.
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BeitragVerfasst am: 22.11.04, 12:09 Antworten mit Zitat
Marco fango
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Mensch, I don't know German enough to do that....

Impedito, the only thing I'd understood is that this article is a spare suggestion guide for XT-TT taking start from DR Suzuki.
But I cannot understand more...

Vabbè ma allora ditelo che gli italiani stanno espatriando..... Laughing
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BeitragVerfasst am: 22.11.04, 15:22 Antworten mit Zitat
Don Pedro
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Hi again,

this link described, what you have looking for, if you want to buy a used XT or TT 350.
The XT is a good bike, the only things you have to look for are the screws of the oilfilter cover (not damaged), the camshaft chain (not too long), fixing screws of the camshaft (not overturned) and
the cylinder head (no tear round the ignition coil).
Most of the rest is about the history and the differences to other bikes. (f.ex. DR 350)

ciao,
Peter


Zuletzt bearbeitet von Don Pedro am 22.11.04, 15:26, insgesamt 1-mal bearbeitet

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Gestern war morgen heute.
Ein Tippfehler und die ganze Signatur ist uriniert.
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Thankin' ALTAVISTA
BeitragVerfasst am: 22.11.04, 15:25 Antworten mit Zitat
Marco fango
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The purchase note - a using purchase consultation Yamaha XT 350
The XT 350 exactly like their crossigere sister TT in the heads of many, which itself an undemanding motorcycle for each day and, is established approximately 20 years after its appearance on the German market first (?)Gelaendeerfahrungen wish. After many banish the Suzuki Gegenpart DR350 due to partly horrender prices and also not better working technology increasingly from their heads, it got around itself nevertheless that the XT with only few improvements does not only represent a serious vehicle for the everyday life.

After the purchase intentions accumulate themselves up concerning XT/TT350 increasingly, a small signpost/guide for potential buyers is to develop here. This "purchase assistance" is not concerned with the usual tests and examinations, which line up with the motorcycle purchase, offers also no view on legal aspects, which are urgently necessary actually in times of InterNet auctions, but the present framework would surely blow up. In addition with it, like one is not to be dealt as salesmen a motorcycle standing to the sales tuerkt and just as few, as one down-deseams an interesting motorcycle as a buyer, in order to obtain a lower price. Rather it is few to which XT/TT engines of existing weak points are lit up in such a way that one does not have to push a putrid egg also as a relative layman into the garage.

In things chassis was the XT always underlaid for the direct competitor DR350. With the TT keeps itself this into for instance the balance, nevertheless should one, special with vehicles, which were in the area on the way, which naturally accomplishes usual examinations of the swinging and bellcrank camps and the guidance head camp, and which most important prices inquired at the Yamaha dealer.

On the engine side there is some too beachten; like with all Enduros unfortunately feels the respective owners due to more simply (?) technology too frequently in the situation to lead all possible work itself through which must go sometimes due to missing expertise inevitably into the trousers. Most popular error in this regard are peeled off threads. Make, if these are repaired with a threaded insert already, and because of consistent high torque again Graet fatal. The neuralgic threads with the XT and TT engines are the following:
All three M6-Gewinde of the oil filter cover: The two upper screws go watering to through in the crankshaft housing and alone by its length the applied torque. Thus it is a question of the time, until the threads in the right housing half peel off. The lower screw is a special one: The shank is somewhat thicker, flows then into a M6-Gewinde. The screw serves normally to off leave before opening the oil filter cover the oil in the oil filter housing. Although the screw nen 5er female hexagon possesses, most (-) nut runners the feeling this screw particularly firm had to anknallen. Unfortunately peeling of this thread off is particularly fatal in the coupler cover: Usually to the repair simply a M8-Gewinde is inserted into the sequence hole cut (fits in the best way, also without boring) and ne short of eight screw. One does not even have to diminish the cover. Unfortunately thereby the oil circulation is interrupted and the oil pressure, on which the crankshaft and piston as well as the cam shafts are dependent, escapes by the sequence hole. Should sit here instead of the original screw a 8er-Inbus or any other screw: better FINGER WAY! since gigantic damage to the engine threatens!
The threads of the Nockenwellenlagerboeckchen: Many Selbermacher build the cam shafts for valve clearance adjusting out, instead of pressing with nem special tool the bucket tappets down, if the Shims must be exchanged. Consequence: By the eternal release and tightening the threads in the head become muerbe, tear out, and a repair is difficult and expensive, since the threads are sunk and must remain absolute the fit for the passhuelsen.
Identical applies to the threads of the open-loop system tension adjuster. It gives also here a special tool, in order to relieve the tension adjuster, to amateur handicraftsmen develops it however and the threads giving way in the course of the time. To the repair the cylinder must be removed...
Same problem with the threads of the valve cover: These sit in the upper sections of the cam wellenlagerboeckchen, the Boeckchen give it only with the cylinder head together to buy, since head and the Boeckchen must be worked on together (approx. 1400. without valves, screws, etc....).

Frequently one hears of excessively lengthened open-loop systems. These cause ugly noises, if the engine runs, in addition can the open-loop system jump over. The tax times change, the engine run worsen, likewise the starting behavior, and the valves can push together or to the piston, which involves an expensive repair...

The largest weak point of the XT/TT engines is however the small quantity of oil of straight times somewhat more than one litre (approx. 1,3l). Which becomes still positively apparent on the workshop calculation with the oil change, turns out with thermally loaded engines as fatal disadvantage: the worst and most expensive damage develops, if the engines are also operated to low oil level, particularly with full power on the motorway or under high load in the area. Relative house man food is a run out gudgeon pin camp or also only a verkokter piston head. To the preserving however it goes, if the cylinder head between spark plug and exhaust valve seats tears, or even a valve seat is rausfaellt, and broken-hammered the head. This is not even astonish-proves to hear and expresses themselves first only by bad starting in the cold and warm condition.

Unfortunately is this alone no indication for nen destroyed cylinder head, because also porous and clever intakes, by which the engine wrong air pulls, provide for bad starting.

The generators are generally not very susceptible to it, and if nevertheless to set simply and favorably. Only the load coil for the CDI ignition makes sometimes problems, then in misfires with warm engine expresses itself up to dying while driving, whereby the engine starts then usually after cooling again. A repair is problem-free possible also here, particularly since the coil is separate for on-board voltage supply from those. Isolated one hears of oil losses within the range of the generator, which agitate either from a leaky Simmering, or of leakages in the housing, which is to be gotten with silicone sealing compound into the grasp.

Worn clutches, which are to be repaired by exchange from friction disks and feathers/springs to, are relatively rare with higher run achievements become above all the fifth and sixth course by howling apparent, which suggests pitting (material outbreaks) at the gear wheels concerned.

Who wants to still hold now to its plan to add itself ne 350er Yamaha is interested reliably in as it can recognize the listed damage.
With difficulty, very with difficulty!
An extensive visual check gets us going already times clearly: A maintained motorcycle collects here already times clear pluses; - Gelaendequaelereien leave traces, which one can never eliminate completely. The engine should be certainly close, easy sweating at the foot seal right over the oil filter is nearly already normal and no leg break. The intakes should not have tears; - the price for one is with approximately 40, -.
A test run is absolutely mandatory. The cold engine starts with tidy attitude of the carburetor and perfect engine at the latest with the third footstep of a practicing with Choke and makes no unusual noises. If the piston mild rattles this rattling after the cold weather starting, should after a few minutes disappear. At the best one to begin leave the salesman the part, - he hunts the cold engine after the first cough equal into the red range, discharges we and makes themselves with the saved coal nen beautiful evening. Otherwise geht's loosely on test run.

Does the clutch seize evenly? Does the transmission make noises? Can all courses be switched? Can the no-load operation be inserted problem-free with warm engine? Finely! If the run hot part reaches still the range of the indicated maximum speed, is already times much won. After the test run geht's to the preserving: A pressure loss test is not except with ner workshop in it, and also there always, compression should not be however possible. The spark plug unscrew, if the engine is somewhat cooled down, screws in or presses compression printing esters, and violently with full power with switched off ignition into the kicker step, until the pointer does not continue to deflect any longer: 8 bar should in it always be, Yamaha indicates as minimum 9. If the tank in addition down had: In the best way!
Equal the valve cover down, and the screws of the nockenwellenlager examine. The few will nen torque wrenches to have; - the screws gotten 10Nm, should stand them, go one doughy or turned, are the thread over there. Also without torque wrenches one can examine the threads provisional: The screws should be not further to turn without large energy expenditure (10NM is not very much!) and firmly its, likewise those of the open-loop system tension adjuster and upper both of the oil filter cover, which lower one must, described how above, the originals its, otherwise better fingers away!!!! If it is off valve covers eh, which threads with which it is bolted on, look at, when putting on and a tightening of the screws may do certainly nix giving way to that indicated torque by 10Nm reached is also here.

A lengthened open-loop system can be diagnosed only free of doubts at the open-loop system tension adjuster, without developing it, in addition the tension adjuster in the inserted condition must be locked, removed then, and then one can see, how far he can still drive out, if locking is solved. 3-5mm should be it in any case still, the more, the better!
We talk about the expensive fun, like clever cylinder heads: One can smell that!
An engine, which was threshed sometime also too little oil, smells with dividing differently, i.e. after burned oil at least if a damage developed. Already if one removes the zylinderkopfhaube, one can smell nen tear in the head. Theoretically anyhow. Wer.s can... Power nen before attempt (however only not in the dwelling!!): Oil in nen old Pott and auf.n gas digesters: for instance 170.C strikes off the smell of penetrant too burned over. That isses! So riechts in the engine, if it were hot driven also too little oil and the head has nen tear. Even if the tear has still no negative effects, thus outward goes through or a clapper seat rausgefallen is. Little breakdown is certainly to explain to nem salesman that one, after one held and geschnuppert the trunk completely deeply inn for engine the cart no more to have does not want, but may have the fun with the broken head others; - Repair costs loosely around the 500-800, -.

If all examinations should have found a positive end, quite an amount of approximately 1200, euro can stand, with extremely good copies, which shine with check book and (genuine) low odometer reading of under 20.000km, also somewhat more, exactly the same with TTs, where one may add gladly still times 200 to 300 euro, last end should buyers and salesmen be content, but is it unfortunately usually so that the buyer is annoyed first, above all on the price tag, if the part changed the owner with ner InterNet auction, where one ungesehen quasi buys. Here one should be conscious with requirement delivery over it that it can be economically more meaningful to resell the whole motorcycle in parts should turn out the fact that one is guessed/advised to a putrid egg, since legal procedure against the salesman normally at least lengthily, if is not even senseless. In the case of doubt rather the fingers leave to pull than a savings box ashore into which one purely puts only coal, where however never again which rauskommt. Except perhaps annoyance, but never a mobile and reliable motorcycle, which the Xts and TTs are under normal conditions without a doubt.

New XT owners or such it to become to want are in the forum by the way cordially to wilkommen; -)



PS: Achtung!!!! An auto translation IS NOT a translation!!!!!!!!!!
It only a help to move forward.
Capiscimi a mè, questo non è mica inglese (verstand diese ist nicht anglosich)

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BeitragVerfasst am: 22.11.04, 15:33 Antworten mit Zitat
Don Pedro
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Hi Marco,

...und DU kannst kein Deutsch ??? Laughing Laughing

Perfect translation ! Very Happy

@ Rolf

Die Übersetzung könntest Du ruhig mit reinnehmen.
Das Forum ist ja schon international.

_________________
Gruß,
Peter


Gestern war morgen heute.
Ein Tippfehler und die ganze Signatur ist uriniert.
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BeitragVerfasst am: 22.11.04, 16:07 Antworten mit Zitat
Marco fango
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Laughing Laughing Laughing Ja, DP, Ich verstee, eine bissien Laughing Laughing Laughing

Thankin' ALTAVISTA!


Please, correct me anytime (all the time) I'll write something wrong in Deutch.
It is the only way to learn.

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BeitragVerfasst am: 23.11.04, 04:32 Antworten mit Zitat
impedito
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MARCO NON CI CAPISCO NIENTE! GRAZIE PER L'IMPEGNO MA AVEVO GIà PROVATO CON ALTAVISTA........VOLEVO DELUCIDAZIONI SULLA VITE IN BASSO DEL FILTRO PERCHè IO HO ROTTO LA FILETTATURA FEMMINA E IL RETTIFICATORE ME NE HA MESSO UNA DENTRO FILETTATA FUORI E DENTRO E HO RIMESSO LA VITE ORIGINALE...
LI MI SEMBRA SI PARLI SOLO DI VITE PIù GRANDE...BO?
E POI MI INTERESSAVA ANCHE LA PARTE DEI RUMORI E DEL TENDI CATENA........IL MIO NON HA TACCHE ...COME FACCIO A SAPERE SE FA ANCORA IL SUO DOVERE?.....HO CAMBIATO LA CATENA MA FA SEMPRE LO STESSO RUMORE UN Pò METALLICO......MI SA CHE DEVO CAMBIARE ANCHE I PATTINI ANCHE SE NON AVEVANO SEGNI VISIBILI ....COMUNQUE LA VECCHIA CATENA ERA PIù LUNGA SOLO DI 3/4 DI MAGLIA (TANTO?)
CIAO E GRAZIE ANCORA
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BeitragVerfasst am: 23.11.04, 10:03 Antworten mit Zitat
Marco fango
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To be readen by anybody here I suggest you to use English.
Cause anyway anybody can understand.
Remember that this is a German forum, and we are both visitors, I guess we should not chat in Italian.
By the way if I can hellp you you can email me or send private messages.

Regarding the oil filter screws, surely you can use a helicoil. You can also use a bigger screw diameter.
else you can use a prisoner, which is the best way to afford a good state in it.

Let me say, if THESE are the problems in a bike it is a good bike.
Fammi dire, se QUESTI sono i problemi in una moto è una buona moto.

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BeitragVerfasst am: 23.11.04, 13:58 Antworten mit Zitat
impedito
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ok....sorry....but don't sneer at me for my english Very Happy Very Happy

i used a helicoil and now i kan sleep thankin marco fango
i've changed the open-loop chain but i hear the same noise like "tin den"
...maybe are the valve calrence adjustment!!!!!!!!!!
i'vent the special tool to do it....can i remove the camshaft ? or it's to hard to do?
bye
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BeitragVerfasst am: 23.11.04, 14:13 Antworten mit Zitat
Marco fango
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Wow, for your english think on what I write in German, they should laugh for days...

By the way, the valve clearance as Clymer manual says, is:

0.08-0.12 intake
0.13-0.17 exaust

Check it with cool engine, manual says "at room temperature".
Somehow I find some expression as stupid, cause a room temperature can be 20°C instead then -20°C....
Ok, check it but do not substitute shims by yourself.
Cause from what I see on the manual isn't that easy.
Substitution requires a special tool to press the valve shim housing down.
The manual calls it VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTING TOOL, part number yamaha YM 4106.
No idea on the price, but I guess it can be self build having the measures.
Ask someone here if the know how to do it.
It is a hook, at the end, a hook that locks down the valve whether you change the shim.

Forgot a piece, do not remove the cams to change the shims cause I guess you may change the free play.
And also you'll have to put in fase distribution...

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BeitragVerfasst am: 23.11.04, 17:22 Antworten mit Zitat
Don Pedro
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Hi,
the special tool you need isn't very expensive.
( Ventilaushebe - Werkzeug , Yamaha)
You may get one in Germany from www.louis.de
The price is about 10.- Euros.
Removing the camshaft isn't good. You can easily damage the screws and then you have a big problem.

Ciao,
Peter

_________________
Gruß,
Peter


Gestern war morgen heute.
Ein Tippfehler und die ganze Signatur ist uriniert.
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BeitragVerfasst am: 25.11.04, 13:08 Antworten mit Zitat
impedito
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yes. i've found it.....but i don't know if they can ship to italy.....anyway
i ask you: the clymer (manual) says "put the tools next the valve lifter etc etc"
but i can't understand how must be used this tools.....it pull up the camshaft?.....turn the valve lifter? could i pull it? or push? or...?
.....
anyway do you think the bad valve clearence could cause noise also with a hot engine?
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BeitragVerfasst am: 25.11.04, 14:31 Antworten mit Zitat
Marco fango
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Damage maybe not (except if the clearance is gone to zero) but it depends if the clearance is begone to some mm.....

Anyway BEFORE anything just CHECK the clearance.
BEFORE YOU GO BUYING ANYTHING, just check what you need.
A metallic tickle at a specified rpm can be almost anything.
Just check the clearance, if it's ok no tool will be needed.
Exclude one piece at a time, distribution chain should be already ok, valves you'll check them, then clutch, and so on.
The problem could be the crankcase also (albero motore) but exclude one piece at a time.

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BeitragVerfasst am: 25.11.04, 14:40 Antworten mit Zitat
Don Pedro
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Yes, that's the right way. Smile

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Peter


Gestern war morgen heute.
Ein Tippfehler und die ganze Signatur ist uriniert.
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BeitragVerfasst am: 22.04.06, 12:31 Antworten mit Zitat
bwatson
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Don Pedro hat folgendes geschrieben::
Hi,
the special tool you need isn't very expensive.
( Ventilaushebe - Werkzeug , Yamaha)
You may get one in Germany from www.louis.de
The price is about 10.- Euros.
Removing the camshaft isn't good. You can easily damage the screws and then you have a big problem.

Ciao,
Peter


Sorry to dig up such an old thread, but I came here looking for help after going to my Yamaha shop today to buy one of these and being told it would cost $AU167 !!

I wish I had the equipment and skill to make one like Baffo: http://westerbaen.tweakdsl.nl/klepsteltool/index.htm

Arghhh Smile

Brian
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BeitragVerfasst am: 23.04.06, 11:56 Antworten mit Zitat
trischter
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Ask him, maybe he would send you one.
I once had a Suzuki tool looking exactly like the one from Yamaha, but fitting perfectly well and working perfect, too.
I´m sorry to say I lost it.
I´m not very satisfied with the fitting of the louis-tool, because it´s not specially made for the Yamaha or xt350 but an universal tool.
So machining one like buffo showed will be the best way to be satisfied and to be successful with working on the xt350-cylinderhead without damaging something.

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BeitragVerfasst am: 27.04.06, 21:39 Antworten mit Zitat
bwatson
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On advice from my local Yamaha dealer ( Smile ) I used a large flat screwdriver to push the bucket down and was able to use a pair of tweezers to remove the shim. I needed two hands to push down, but once it was down I could hold it with one hand leaving the other free to operate the tweezers. Easy!

BUT, I am not suggesting that you (anyone) do this - there is risk that if the screwdriver slips while under pressure it could cause serious damage to the head. I decided that $AU167 was worth the risk. You must decide for yourself...

Thanks,

Brian
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BeitragVerfasst am: 27.04.06, 21:55 Antworten mit Zitat
trischter
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Bloody right, but: you can minimise the risk, if you turn the camshaft that the cam of the valve, you want to adjust, pushes down the valve/bucket, then put the screwdriver between camshaft and the bucket and remove the shim like you did after loosing (loosening?) it with another, small screwdriver.
To remove the screwdriver that holds up the bucket, turn the camshaft again until the cam-lope pushes the valve open, remove the screwdriver and do all the same with the next valve.
Since I don´t find the Suzuki-tool I use to practice that all the time and never had any problem with it. In contrary: Using the Louis-tool seems to be more dangerous, because of it´s not really exactly fitting and slipping sidewards all the time instead of keeping the bucket pressed down... Twisted Evil

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